Five details our authenticators check first, explained plainly.
Counterfeiters have never been more sophisticated, which is exactly why physical inspection still matters more than any single "tell." Here's what our authentication desk checks first on bags and small leather goods from houses like Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Hermès.
Genuine hardware, such as zips, buckles and turn locks, has a consistent weight and crisp, evenly spaced stamping. Shallow, blurry or inconsistently spaced engraving is one of the most common signs of a replica, even on otherwise convincing pieces.
Luxury ateliers hold tight tolerances on stitch count per inch, and stitching lines run parallel to seams without wandering. We compare stitch density against house specific references rather than relying on memory or a single reference photo.
Formats vary significantly by house and by era, and have changed over time as brands have moved to newer systems. A code that looks plausible but doesn't match the claimed production period is a red flag.
Coated canvas, box calfskin and lambskin each have a distinct hand feel and, often, a distinct smell when new. This is one area where in person inspection genuinely outperforms photographs.
Lining material, pocket construction and the finishing of raw edges are labour intensive to fake well. We check interior seams as closely as the exterior.
